Advice on changing plugs and wires?
Here are the tips for the First Gen SC’s and some to all can and will apply to yours also so read all of them before starting the job. All tips must be followed to achieve desired results , especially the plug recommendation.
The cylinders are numbered like so, facing engine from front of car. Front to back, left hand side then right hand side. #1 is the front pass and #3 is the rear. #4 is the front D/S and #6 is the rear, got it?
#1: Done from up top, remove the air intake tube and put in trunk for safe keeping. Drain and remove the coolant overflow bottle and put in trunk. Now you can get to #1 with a swivel on the spark plug socket and about two or three 3″ extensions on the ratchet.
#2: Done from under the pass side. Do to the tight fit it is easier to use a short socket that fits on the hex head of the spark plug socket. Push the spark-plug socket on by hand then slide on the ratchet with the short socket that fits the plug socket head to loosen and install.
#3: Underneath, use a short (3″) extension on the ratchet with the plug socket. It may be easier to push the socket and extension on first then put the ratchet on them.
Warning: I may have 2 and 3 mixed up in my memory but I don’t think so. If you try and it seems like it then switch methods and see what happens.
4-5 from underneath driver’s side
#4: just socket and ratchet, fits and turns. May have to put socket on first like others.
#5 & 6 are pretty easy.
Do make sure wires get centered then clicked down. Don’t try to crimp terminal for tight fit on tip of plug, for any reason.
When installing coat the threads of all plugs lightly with anti-seize. This crap is messy so have a roll of blue towels handy. If you get some on the tips clean with carburetor brake cleaner and do over. Tighten plugs until they just seat then just a bit more, don’t strong-arm them.
When loosening if they are stiff don’t strong arm them, just maintain pressure and they usually bust loose within 5-10 seconds, if not slightly increase pressure and try again. The engine must be cold (aluminum threads).
If you drop a plug inspect it big time. If in doubt get another one–this is very important. If you start it up and it’s missing badly ones broken. Without a scope it’s a guessing game as to which one. If this happens and you dropped one or heard some cracking sounds when torqueing one in try replacing the plug(s) in question first. With fresh anti-seize you can do it warm, hot you can’t touch it!
Study the routing of the wires and only remove and replace one side at a time to avoid mix-ups. Match the old wires to the same size wires in the new set. Take each engine side of the plug wires off while still in the looms; there are three on each side. Then match the wires to that side and lay them out next to the old ones, spaced exactly alike. Then transfer the looms one at time to the new wires. Start from coil ends to plug ends
and put the three for that side back on in one piece.
Make sure that the new wires sit clear of any hot or moving parts when on.
Motorcraft AWSF32PP’s will increase full throttle power and resist detonation better than the 34’s. Don’t freak over the different base design it’s been tried and tested by us every which way to Sunday and it works better. Yes we installed them in loose heads and they fit snug in the chamber like a performance plug should and not sticking out holding heat like the 34’s. Leave the smaller gap on the 32’s alone, this is better. Mileage and emissions will not be adversely effected in any significant way.