“How to Make Your SC Faster”

– What you can do, and how much you can spend! –

How Can I Make My SC Faster? I’ll bet I’ve been asked this question 1000 times in the past 5 years!!!! Well, here goes!

There comes a time when you will need to decide two things,
1). How fast do you want to go? …… and,
2). How much can I afford to spend?

As that old saying goes, “Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?”

If you only have a few bucks to spend, First, remove the air silencer. This will cost you all of $5.00 to do and it will gain you about 1-2 horsepower and your 1/4 mile times will drop about 1-2 tenths at best. The trade off is that it will also make your blower noisier, but that can be a good thing too!!! Next, invest in a 5% overdrive pulley for the supercharger. It will run you about $85.00 and is good for another 1/2 second off of your 1/4 mile times and will boost your horsepower rating about 15-20hp.

OK, that said, lets say you have an extra $1500.00 in you pocket! The next thing you should do is start by replacing your stock exhaust system with a more “free-flowing” exhaust system. There are several options available! I’d suggest that you ask around and try to ride in, or drive, some of them to see which one you like best. Headers are also a good idea when replacing the stock exhaust system. They will run you anywhere from $200.00 to $600.00 depending on what you buy, and they will add 25-75 horsepower depending on your other modifications.

With the rest of your $1500.00, a new throttle body and MAF would be the next logical step. Once again, there are several ways to go here, so you need to determine which is the best for the kind of driving you are planning to do.

For a few extra bucks, ($180.00 aprox.), you can also add a cold air intake system and a K&N style air filter. The colder your intake air is, the more horsepower the engine can make, so don’t scrimp on your intake system.

From here, you can replace the stock pulleys with a set of under-drive pulleys, light weight “billet aluminum” pulleys, convert to a double intercooler, delete the AC compressor and use a power adder like nitrous oxide. HOWEVER, Nitrous Oxide is NOT RECOMMENDED on a stock engine or an engine that still has the stock crank, pistons and rods installed. Engine failure is emanate! It’s just a matter of time!!!!

The bolt on performance options are really pretty black and white. From here on, it gets a little more cloudy and gray.

The big horsepower numbers come when you start making changes inside the engine. This can be achieved by changing the cam and valve train components, connecting rods, pistons, crankshaft and so on. I’ve heard numbers all over the place from $4000.00 to $10,000.00 to make these changes. It really depends on how much of the work you can do yourself.

No matter which numbers you choose to believe, rest assured that the guys that are running the big numbers at the track have spent BIG bucks to do it.

Most of the top 25 SC’s in the SCCOA and other groups have been at this for several years, and they have done a lot of Research and Development to get the numbers they have at present.

Most of them are more than willing to share this information, and for this, they are owed a great deal of thanks. (Not to mention a few cold brews). Their Research and Development has made it much easier and more cost effective for everyone who has just started a project in the past year or so!

They’ve made all kinds of changes, and most of them have changed these items two, three and four times. These Items include:

Custom Crankshafts
Custom Pistons
Custom Piston Rings
Custom Connecting Rods
Custom machined Rod bearings
Oil Pumps
BHJ Balancers
Underdrive Pulleys
Custom grind camshafts
Ported and polished heads
Stainless Steel Valves
Bronze Valve Guides
ARP Bolts & Studs
roller-type rocker arms
chrome moly pushrods
Raised Supercharger Tops
Custom Upper and Lower Intercooler Tubes
Intercooler Tube Gaskets and Seals
Duel thickness Intercoolers
Ported Intake Manifolds
Liquid Intercoolers in some cases
Aluminum Radiators
Ported Superchargers
75mm- 80mm Throttle Body
73mm- 76mm Mass Airflow Sensors
Cold Air Intake
Magnum Powers Inlet Plenums
Magnum Powers 85mm Throttle Bodys
90mm Lighting MAF
Custom Inlet Tubes
Lentech Valvebodies
Lentech non-lockup torque converters
custom built transmissions
Transmission cooler
Transmission cooler fans
255lph Fuel Pumps
Braided Steel Fuel Lines
Remote Mounted Fuel Regulators
Plug Wires
Spark Plugs
Headers
Custom True Dual Exhaust
Custom Torque Straps
Aluminum Driveshaft
Fuel Cells

I’m sure I’ve missed several things, but you get the idea!

After you get all done building the motor and drive train, there is always one more big question left to answer, and that is: “Now how do I get traction?” Well, there are two options.

1). Get a set of Mickey Thompson, Nitto, Hosier, or BF Goodrich drag radials. These are great if you are on a budget and if you need to have them do double duty. They are street legal and they are almost as good as a pair of real slicks!

OR:

2). Get yourself a set of real drag slicks. Mickey Thompson makes an “E/T Street” tire that is the favorite of most people running in the “Street” and “Super Street” classes at the local tracks.

In either case, 26×10.5×15 or 26.0×10.5-16 are what seems to work best for most everyone. These sizes convert to about 245-55-15 or 245-50-16 in a drag radial.

In closing, there are a bunch of things you can do to get more speed and power out of your SC. You just have to figure out what you want to do and how fast you want to go!!!! After that, it’s just a matter of time and money!

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